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Toyota Sienna (1998-2003) - Replacing the Power Window Motor
From WikiAutoRepair
| Production | 1997–Dec 2003 |
|---|---|
| Model year(s) | 1998–2003 |
| Assembly | Georgetown, Kentucky, USA (Toyota Motor Manufacturing Kentucky) |
| Body style(s) | 3-door minivan (CE only, 1998-2000) 4-door minivan |
| Layout | Front-engine, front-wheel drive layout |
| Engine(s) | 3.0 L 1MZ-FE V6 (1998-2000) 3.0 L 1MZ-FE V6 (01-03, VVT-i) 210 hp, 220 ft·lbf |
| Transmission(s) | 4-speed automatic (A540E/A541E) |
| Wheelbase | 114.2 in |
| Length | 190.5 in (1998-2000) 194.2 in (2001-03) |
| Width | 73.4 in |
| Height | 67.3 in |
| Related | Toyota Camry |
Contents |
[edit] Tools Needed
- Philips head screwdriver
- Torx Wrench T-25 L Shape
- Putty knife
- Small mirror 2"x3"
- Flashlight
- Soldering Iron
- Heat gun
[edit] Supplies Needed
- New power window motor
- Note: The driver side motor and passenger side motor are not the same
- Shrink wrap
- Solder
[edit] Instructions
- Remove the screw cap using the putty knife and unscrew the screw.
- Remove the arm rest by popping it up starting from the inside side.
- Unscrew the door opener. Notice a little notch on the left hand side of the piece. Make sure you pull out on the right hand side first.
- Note: be careful when removing the trim plate (and door panel in subsequent steps). The plastic sub-assembly for the door handle is not very strong, and will not be well supported.
- Now pull off the inside door cover. There is a plastic sheet that will need to come off too. Keep it in good condition, since it's easy to put back on.
- This is where I noticed that there's a shell that's welded onto the door and no way to easily get to the motor.
Now is a good time to put a few pieces of duck tape to the top to keep the window up. Get ready for a big surprise if you forget.
- This is where I noticed that there's a shell that's welded onto the door and no way to easily get to the motor.
- Next disconnect the motor quick connects.
- It's now time to improvise. Using a mirror stick some duck tape to the back side of it and position it so that you can see the bolts holding the motor on. Put a light in the outer hole to provide light. Here's a picture of the bolts holding the motor on looking through the mirror taped to the inside of the door.
- Now put both hands in each hole and start trying to loosen the bolts with the torx wrench.
- Now I did loosen a bold in the middle of the door to enable me to lift the plate covering the motor in order for me to remove it.
- Now my motor didn't have a quick connect on it, so I had to use the one from the broken core.
- Notice the shrink insulation? After soldering the wires use the heat gun on the shrink wrap.
- Next put the new motor in and tighten the bolts.