Nissan 350Z (2003-2009) - Change Brake Pads

Nissan 350Z
Manufacturer	Nissan
Production	2003-2008 (Coupé); 2004–2009 (Roadster)
Predecessor	Nissan 300ZX
Successor	Nissan 370Z
Class	Sports car /; Roadster
Body style(s)	2-door coupé / 2-door roadster
Engine(s)	2003-2004 3.5 L VQ35DE V6 287 bhp 274 ft-lbf ; 2005 (35th Anv & Track) 3.5 L VQ35DE RevUp V6 300 bhp 260 ft-lbf ; 2006 3.5 L VQ35DE RevUp V6 300 bhp 260 ft-lbf ; 2007-present 3.5 L VQ35HR V6 306 bhp 268 ft-lbf;
Transmission(s)	5-speed automatic; 6-speed manual
Wheelbase	104.3 in
Length	2003-05: 169.4 in; 2006-08: 169.8 in
Width	71.5 in
Height	2003-05 Hatchback: 51.9 in ; Roadster: 52.3 in ; 2006-08 Hatchback: 52.1 in ; Roadster: 52.5 in;
Curb weight	3,580 lb - 3,602 lb
Fuel capacity	20 gallons
Related	Infiniti G35; Nissan Skyline

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This is a guide on how to change the brake pads on a Nissan 350Z.

[edit] Tools Needed

Jack and jack stands, or lift
Ratchet
14mm socket
1/2" drive 21mm socket
2" long 1/2" drive extender
1/2" drive breaker bar
1/2" drive torque wrench
Caliper piston retractor or large C-clamp

[edit] Supplies Needed

New brake pads
Brake fluid
Caliper grease

[edit] Instructions

Make sure the car is on a level surface before beginning.
Break the lug nuts loose while the car is still on the ground.
Look under the car and identify the proper jack point. It will have 2 small indentations in a rail running underneath the car about 1' to 1.5' behind the front wheel on each side.
Jack up the car in the above location. The jack that comes with the car is suitable for this.
Now completely remove the lug nuts (be careful the tire doesn't fall off).
Remove the tire (if it hasn't fallen off).
You should now be staring at the brake rotor and caliper assembly.
On the back side of the caliper there will be 2 bolts as highlighted in the above photo. The picture below is of one of the two bolts, the other is identical but on the other end of the caliper.
Remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper to the mount (they'll be tight so be careful when they break loose) using the 14mm socket or wrench. (A handy alternative to removing both is to remove the one furthest from the shock/spring. You can then pivot the caliper around the other bolt and don't have to worry about it dangling or falling as in the next step.
Don't let the caliper dangle by the brake line. Rest it on the top of the rotor. (If you want to remove the rotor, there are 2 more bolts holding the caliper mount on. Remove those, and the rotor should fall off).
Remove the 2 old pads. The easiest method is to grab the wear tab and pull gently.
Transfer the small metal plates on the old pads to the new ones. Put a small layer of high temperature grease between the pad the shim, then between the 2 shims on the back pad (the one the caliper contacts. The larger shim goes on the inside, with the smaller shim going over it.
Since the calipers auto-adjust to the wear of the pads, it will be necessary to compress the piston to fit over the new, wider pads. Use one of the old pads and a large C-clamp to do this. If the pads are especially worn, you may have to open the brake fluid reservoir under the hood and suck out some of the fluid as it backs up into the reservoir. Refill with appropriate fluid if necessary. It's best, if you have to push the piston back in, to thoroughly clean the piston and caliper with brake cleaner prior to pushing it back in. This removes any debris that could score the piston while forcing it back in.
Reinstall the caliper and install the 2 bolts which were holding it on. Tighten with wrench very firmly. You may have to slide the portion on the other side of the caliper (the part with the rubber boot) back a little to get the caliper back on.
You're now done installing the caliper on one side of the car.
Put the tire back on and hand snug the lug nuts.
Lower the car to the ground and tighten the lugs in a star pattern to 80 ft-lbs. Basically, once one is torqued, don't torque the one right next to it on either side.