Nissan 350Z (2003-2009) - Bleeding the Brakes

Nissan 350Z

Manufacturer	Nissan
Production	2003-2008 (Coupé) 2004–2009 (Roadster)
Predecessor	Nissan 300ZX
Successor	Nissan 370Z
Class	Sports car / Roadster
Body style(s)	2-door coupé / 2-door roadster
Engine(s)	2003-2004 3.5 L VQ35DE V6 287 bhp 274 ft-lbf 2005 (35th Anv & Track) 3.5 L VQ35DE RevUp V6 300 bhp 260 ft-lbf 2006 3.5 L VQ35DE RevUp V6 300 bhp 260 ft-lbf 2007-present 3.5 L VQ35HR V6 306 bhp 268 ft-lbf
Transmission(s)	5-speed automatic 6-speed manual
Wheelbase	104.3 in
Length	2003-05: 169.4 in 2006-08: 169.8 in
Width	71.5 in
Height	2003-05 Hatchback: 51.9 in Roadster: 52.3 in 2006-08 Hatchback: 52.1 in Roadster: 52.5 in
Curb weight	3,580 lb - 3,602 lb
Fuel capacity	20 gallons
Related	Infiniti G35 Nissan Skyline

This is a guide on how to bleed the brakes on a Nissan 350Z.

Contents 1 Tools Needed 2 Supplies Needed 3 Instructions 4 Videos 5 See Also

[edit] Tools Needed

• Jack and jack stands, or lift
• Ratchet
• 1/2" drive 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench

[edit] Supplies Needed

• New brake fluid

[edit] Instructions

1. Jack up the car and place on jack stands. Remove all the wheels and set aside.
2. Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.) While the actual sequence is not critical to the bleed performance it is easy to remember the sequence as the farthest to the closest. This will also allow the system to be bled in such a way as to minimize the amount of potential cross-contamination between the new and old fluid.
3. Locate the bleeder screw at the rear of the caliper body (or drum brake wheel cylinder.) Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw and don't lose it!
4. Place the box-end wrench over the bleeder screw. An offset wrench works best since it allows the most room for movement.
5. Place one end of the clear plastic hose over the nipple of the bleeder screw.
6. Place the other end of the hose into the disposable bottle.
7. Place the bottle for waste fluid on top of the caliper body or drum assembly. Hold the bottle with one hand and grasp the wrench with the other hand.
8. Instruct the assistant to "apply." The assistant should pump the brake pedal three times, hold the pedal down firmly, and respond with "applied." Instruct the assistant not to release the brakes until told to do so.
9. Loosen the bleeder screw with a brief turn to release fluid into the waste line. The screw only needs to be open for one second or less. (The brake pedal will "fall" to the floor as the bleeder screw is opened. Instruct the assistant in advance not to release the brakes until instructed to do so.)
10. Close the bleeder screw by tightening it gently. Note that one does not need to pull on the wrench with ridiculous force. Usually just a quick tug will do.
11. Instruct the assistant to "release" the brakes. Note: do NOT release the brake pedal while the bleeder screw is open, as this will suck air back into the system!
12. The assistant should respond with "released."
13. Inspect the fluid within the waste line for air bubbles.
14. Continue the bleeding process (steps 11 through 16) until air bubbles are no longer present. Be sure to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel! Add fluid as necessary to keep the level at the MAX marking. (Typically, one repeats this process 5-10 times per wheel when doing a standard bleed.)
15. Move systematically toward the driver right rear, left rear, right front, left front - repeating the bleeding process at each corner. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on the brake fluid reservoir! Keep it full!
16. When all four corners have been bled, spray the bleeder screw (and any other parts that were moistened with spilled or dripped brake fluid) with brake cleaner and wipe dry with a clean rag. (Leaving the area clean and dry will make it easier to spot leaks through visual inspection later!) Try to avoid spraying the brake cleaner DIRECTLY on any parts made of rubber or plastic, as the cleaner can make these parts brittle after repeated exposure.
17. Test the brake pedal for a firm feel. (Bleeding the brakes will not necessarily cure a "soft" or "mushy" pedal since pad taper and compliance elsewhere within the system can contribute to a soft pedal. But the pedal should not be any worse than it was prior to the bleeding procedure!)

[edit] Videos

[edit] See Also